Technicolor sunsets, swaying palm trees, and shimmering water that feels like stepping into a bath—these may sound like paradise, but until I spent four nights in the Maldives, it was my idea of holiday hell.
I love to travel and am fortunate to do so more than most. However, my typical itinerary involves covering 30,000 steps a day and cramming in as many historical sights as possible rather than lounging on a sunbed. Before the Maldives, my most recent adventure was in Uzbekistan, where I drove seven hours across the Kyzylkum desert and explored secret tunnels in a Central Asian mosque.
So, when I had the chance to visit one of the 1,192 pristine sandbanks that make up this Indian Ocean haven, I felt anxious. What would I do at an all-inclusive resort that you can walk across in 15 minutes?
I’ve always struggled to unwind, and if you had told me that half a week on a tiny island in the South Nilandhe Atoll would finally teach me the joy of relaxation, I wouldn’t have believed you.
But it did—and it’s changed my idea of the perfect holiday forever.
First Impressions
As we touched down in the densely-populated Maldivian capital of Malé, I wondered how quickly I would devour the books I had hauled halfway across the world. And what would I do then? Lie alone with my thoughts?
My anxious brain was already fretting about where it would take me with little distraction but sun, sea, and sand as we boarded a seaplane that would fly us 145 km south to Sun Siyam Vilu Reef, a five-star resort built on a coral reef.
I needn’t have worried. The 35-minute journey alone was enough to fill my head with awe and serotonin. Crewed by the barefoot pilots of Trans Maldivian Airways, we soared over the turquoise ocean speckled with white sandbanks and the familiar outline of the Maldives’ iconic overwater huts.
By the time we landed at our destination, my fear of boredom had started to dissolve into the azure waves. We were greeted with juice-filled pineapples and a chauffeured golf buggy that took us to the villa that would be our home for the next four days.
The setting was otherworldly, with crystal clear water lapping against the shore and soft yellow sand glistening in the sun. What struck me most was the warm welcome from our ‘island hosts,’ Erika and Mohammed, who greet dozens of guests each week yet made us feel like we were the first.
Behind the door of the villa lay a level of luxury I’d never experienced before. A cavernous bedroom backed onto a huge walk-in wardrobe, and a Jack and Jill bathroom (with two sinks!) looked out onto a terrace where a sparkling infinity pool flowed into the sea.
As the day wore on, the clear blue sky became mottled with pink, melting into a candy-hued sunset of orange and purple that I know I’ll remember for the rest of my life.
“If you asked ChatGPT to show you heaven,” I thought, “this is what it would give you.” Why was I so worried about coming here to do nothing?
The Joy of Doing Nothing
It didn’t take long for me to realize I’d gotten the Maldives—and my assumptions of sun, sea, and sweet nothingness—spectacularly wrong.
After hours spent flip-flopping between the pool and the ocean, I had worked up enough of an appetite to try a smorgasbord of dishes from one of the island’s three restaurants. An eclectic menu catered to every palate, offering freshly caught tuna sashimi to start, Maldivian curries laced with chili and dried fish for the main course, and an array of cakes, creams, and fruits to finish.
From the first bite, I became obsessed with masmirus, a Maldivian sambal made of dried tuna, garlic, ginger, and chili. I drizzled it over everything, relishing the spicy kick as I stared out from the restaurant deck at the ocean that seemed to stretch on forever.
Initially, it felt strange to spend hours over dinner, simply enjoying the view. But soon, I realized I had missed out on more than I had known on previous trips, where I was barreling around like a roadrunner, desperate to fit too much in. With so much conflict plaguing our world, it’s easy to feel overwhelmed by the darkness. In those moments, looking out over the gently lapping waves, I felt incredibly lucky to be in a place that feels so peaceful.
Plenty to Do in Paradise
Even if lounging with an icy cocktail isn’t your thing, the Maldives offers plenty of activities to keep you engaged. From wine tasting and hot stone massages to diving trips with a good chance of encountering a whale shark, there’s something for everyone.
For ocean lovers, jet skis, flippers, and masks are available to explore the nearby reef. My favorite experience was a group snorkeling tour, where we sailed about 30 minutes from the island and swam alongside giant sea turtles and a vibrant array of colorful fish.
A sunset cruise was another highlight, with dolphins putting on an enthralling performance, flipping and twirling above the waves. Witnessing such a spectacle is something I will always feel privileged to have seen.
So Captivating is Sun Siyam Vilu Reef
Sun Siyam Vilu Reef is so enchanting that one German woman has returned more than 40 times in eight years. Affectionately dubbed “Mama” by the resort staff who clearly adore her, this lucky traveler has even been given her own beachfront villa, marked with a sign that reads “Mama’s House.”
The people behind Sun Siyam Resorts know how to give back. On Bandidhoo, an island about an hour’s boat ride from Sun Siyam Vilu Reef, their community spirit is evident in the form of an outdoor gym and playground, funded by the resort as a thank you to the locals.
Affordable Luxury
Sun Siyam Vilu Reef is undoubtedly a luxury resort, but it’s surprisingly affordable considering its location in one of the world’s most expensive holiday destinations.
A one-night all-inclusive stay for two people in an overwater villa at Sun Siyam Vilu Reef starts from £470, a bargain compared to many of its counterparts across the atoll. By comparison, one night at the newly opened Soneva Secret, the Maldives’ priciest resort, will set you back £2,556. And if you want to spend Christmas in that particular slice of paradise, the price shoots up to a cool £8,880.
If the cost of a luxury resort puts a damper on your Maldives travel plans, don’t worry—there are plenty of budget-friendly options available too. Since 2009, the Maldivian government has allowed independent guesthouses to open on non-resort islands, where rooms can cost as little as £25 per night. Additionally, Airbnb and Couchsurfing operate in the Maldives, with about 2,000 active hosts spread across the 1,192 islands.
For the best deals, travel experts recommend booking from May to September. Despite being billed as the wet season, rain showers are infrequent and almost always short.
As we boarded a seaplane back to Malé on our final morning, the sun was rising over the undulating horizon. I felt calm and overwhelmingly grateful to have spent four days in such a unique and extraordinary paradise.
There had been no real itinerary, no bustling city streets with bars to choose from, no ancient buildings weathered by time and conflict. Yet, I had never enjoyed a holiday more.
